All posts by Keith Markensen

Soil Texture In Growing Vegetables

The texture of the soil in growing vegetables, should not be so open as to leave air pockets, because the roots have minute hairs through which they absorb moisture and dissolved plant foods. These foods are needed in addition to carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. Chief of these is nitrogen, supplemented by phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulphur and a long list of other minerals usually known as the minor elements. Only the merest trace of some of them may be necessary, but if, for example, beets are grown in a soil completely devoid of boron, the plants are apt to be stunted and blotched and the roots discolored and watery. The absence of an iron fraction in the soil may mean yellowed leaves and inefficient growth.

When some corn plants were analyzed, it was found that 70 per cent of their weight was water. They were then dried and the remainder was found to be as follows:

Oxygen 44.57% Carbon 43.70 Hydrogen 6.26 _____ 94.53%

Nitrogen 1.46 Silicon 1.17 Potassium .92 Calcium .23 Phosphorus .20 Magnesium .18 Sulphur .17 Chlorine .14 Aluminum .11 Iron .08 Manganese .03 Sodium and other elements .78 _____ 5.47%

*The magnesium in this analysis would amount to less than 3 ounces in 100 pounds. Other plants would show different ratios of the constituents, but the range would be equally wide.

Is the soil then a mass of minerals? By no means. Nor can the rootlets absorb raw rpineral elements. Of the fertile top soil, on which plants chiefly depend, disintegrated rock forms 65 to 95 per cent of the mass, and organic matter 2 to 5 per cent. The rest is soil air and soil water, which holds salts of the minerals in solution. Nor is the soil an inert mass; there are more plants and animals in it than there are above it. Except for the industrious earthworms and insects, they are microscopic, mostly bacteria.

As organic matter breaks down, with the aid of all of these, ammonia is released. It is turned into acid which unites with mineral bases to form nitrates which in solution, can be taken up by the roots as plant food. The beneficial bacteria in the soil require oxygen, which is another reason for tillage. Conversely, there are other bacteria which attack the nitrates and waste the nitrogen (from the gardener’s point of view) by releasing it into the air. These bacteria operate only in soils deficient of oxygen, usually wet soils from which the proper supply of plant food is missing. Therefore, a wet soil is to be avoided or drained when a garden is planned.

 

Multiflora Rose – An Attractive And Serviceable Fences

The multiflora rose makes such an attractive and serviceable fence plant that gardeners can hardly believe all the things they hear about it – covered with flowers in June…grows several feet a year. . .so dense no person or animal can penetrate it…not bothered by insects or plant diseases. . .so tough and hardy anyone can grow it but nothing can kill it! It is all these things, and more.

A touglt, wiry plant of Asiatic origin, it is so hardy and grows so vigorously that for years nurserymen have used it as the understock on which to bud (or graft) garden roses. If you’ve ever set out a hybrid tea, floribunda or climber, the root of the plant was probably a multiflora rose. If your garden roses “suckered” from the bottom and you saw a long wiry cane coming from the base of a rose plant, this was the multiflora bush trying desperately to grow. despite the fact that its top was cut off by the nurseryman.

For farm use, multiflora roses are usually planted 12 inches apart. but for home gardens and plantings around public buildings, where only the appearance counts, a distance of 18 inches between plants is satisfactory. Increasingly used as a hedge around factories and public buildings, its dense tangle of growth keeps out intruders while its unusual beauty makes it valuable for landscaping.

On your home grounds, a living fence of multiflora roses will grow rapidly, giving you remarkable privacy in a very short time. Vigorous selected plants will grow as much as 3 to 4 feet the first year, becoming more solid as the luxuriant growth continues. Left untrimmed, multiflora rose fences or hedges will become 6 to 7 feet high and 5 to 6 feet wide in a few years. The long wiry growth can be trimmed off the sides to keep the width to a minimum. For garden use, a practical width is 3 feet. The maximum height of a hedge of this width will probably be from 6 to 7 feet.

Trimming Plants

Trimming is advisable to keep the long wiry growth compact. Vigorous new plants will quickly throw out willowy growth; the more this long new growth is cut back, the more dense the plant will become. Whenever a long cane is cut off, several new canes immediately push out where the cut was made.

In June, multiflora roses are completely covered with pinkish white blooms like those of a small single old-fashioned rambler rose. These last for a couple of weeks. All summer the plants are green and full; in early fall thousands of decorative red berries appear. These are a favorite food of many birds, so they may not last more than a few weeks.

There are some thorns, but they are not so numerous as to be any problem, nor are they as dangerous or sharp as barberry thorns. This sort of hedge is not dangerous to children, yet makes an impenetrable planting which they cannot crawl through or trample down. If you want a foolproof hedge -which will grow and grow but which requires virtually no care, by all means try the multiflora rose.

 

categories: rose,garden,gardening,home improvement