Tag Archives: plant care

The Very Useful Fungus For The Plants

One essential overlooked by aspiring growers is the need for a certain fungus which grows on the roots of these plants. This organism, called mycorrhiza, lives on the roots of all the plants I have mentioned, in a symbiotic relationship. This means that the fungus is not a parasite, but contributes to the welfare of the host plant, and in turn is sheltered and fed by it.

Just how they feed the plant is not clearly understood. We know that an azalea grown from seed in sphagnum moss produces root hairs like other plants. When transplanted to soil it loses these root hairs. Experts believe that the inycorrhizae function as root hairs and help dissolve soil chemicals so they can be used by the host.

An even more obscure phase of acid soil plant nutrition is their need for hormones from outside the plant itself. Most broad-leaved evergreens belong to what is known as the forest floor group. That is, they live in light shade on forest floors. There is considerable evidence that such plants do not manufacture enough of their own hormones for normal growth. I suspect they extract these from decaying plant material that originated in sunshine. Certainly, the use of hormone compounds like Transplantonc produces a much greater response in plants of this group than in plants growing in full sun.

Since fungi survive only in the presence of abundant organic matter, we know that one way to insure survival is to mix in at least 25 per cent humus, peat, compost, etc., when making the bed.

To wrap up the culture of acid soil plants in a single, oversimplified statement, we might say that it is largely the culture of mycorrhizae. What is good for the fungus is good for the plant. True, we find wild plants in nature growing under conditions which favor mycorrhizal activity. Practically all of them have rather shallow roots covered with a mulch of fallen leaves, and grow in sections where high humidity and mist keep the soil constantly moist, yet where drainage is so sharp that moisture never stands.

 

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Home Beautification Of Flowers In Winter

Bringing flowers indoors can certainly brighten up any home when the cold winter season sets in. In today’s busy world it can be difficult to know what you can do for color indoors.

Clumps of iris pumila or violets, potted now and brought into the house, should bloom in a few weeks.

Branches with plump uninjured flowering buds of winter honeysuckle, forsythia, peach, pussy willow, Cornelian-cherry, Magnolia stellata and Soulangeana, deutzia, Spirea Thunbergi and flowering quince may be cut and placed in water for winter bouquets.

Cut the ends of branches on a slant and peel back the bark an inch or so to allow increased water absorption. Select branches preferably two to three feet long. Specimens brought inside immediately after cutting and placed in water in a sunny south window usually develop rapidly and

No great difference is shown when branches are forced in either warm or cold water. Room temperatures from 55 to 65 degrees produce best results, but this range is considerably less than that in the typical home. Higher temperatures force bloom sooner than where lower temperature is maintained, but the flowers do not last as long. Sunlight is not essential but it does impart a richer color to the flowers and foliage. Length of time required for forcing depends upon the nearness of the normal blooming season; the first branches cut in late January take more time to develop than those cut the first of Mareh.

For attractive outdoor flower boxes during the winter, cut tip end branches 12 to 18 inches long of spruce, fir or pine and stick down into the soil in flower boxes. A few small Tine cones wired naturally to the branches will add interest and attractiveness. Later a few branches of forsythia and winter honeysuckle with vigorous flowering buds cut and stuck down into the soil among the evergreen branches will add early color.

 

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